Unsung heros- clay idol makers of Kolkata

Kumortuli. The name of the place in Bengali language means a potter's quarters. But the potters of this place in the last few generations have transcended the traditional boundaries of pottery to become artisans and creators, re-creating Hindu mythology through idols. Their creation is a freeze of the most dramatic moment of a mythological episode or a portrayal of the divinity of Hindu Gods and Goddesses in their traditional form. The explosion of nonchalant creativity that unfolds in front of the eyes of the uninitiated in a visit to this place, particularly in the busy idol-making sessions such as August-October, is mind-boggling. Like several other bloggers, photo-journalists, heritage conservationists and Kolkata-lovers, I am a big fan of this place. My interest in this place ties in very well to my larger interest in Kolkata's history, heritage and people-centric experience which makes this city unique in the milieu of other mega-cities of the world. I hereby devote this blog to the wonderfully talented artisans and craftsmen of Kumortuli area in Kolkata.

Dr. John Holwell was an employee of the English East India Company who was appointed Zamindar (landlord and tax-collector) of the Twentyfour Parganas District of Bengal. He later became a temporary Governor of Bengal (1760) as a successor of Robert Clive and was a survivor of the Black Hole tragedy of Calcutta in June 1756. When the British started building Fort William in 1758, he allotted ‘separate districts to the Company’s workmen.’ These neighborhoods in the heart of the Indian quarters acquired the work-related names – Patuapara (locality of traditional painters) Suriparah (the place of wine sellers), Collotollah (the place of oil men), Chuttarparah (the place of carpenters), Aheeritollah (cowherd’s quarters), Coomartolly (potters’ quarters) and so on. The potters of Kumortuli, who fashioned the clay from the river beside their home into pots to be sold at Sutanuti Bazar (later Burrabazar), managed to survive in the area. Gradually they took to making the images of gods and goddesses, worshipped in large numbers in the mansions all around and later at community pujas in the city and beyond. I found a wonderful research on the history, tradition and its significance and practices of Kumortuli artisans and clay images of West Bengal done by Dr. Jim Robinson (DPhil, Oxford University)over three months at site in: http://www.clayimage.co.uk/

Today's Kumortuli comes accross as the unreserved compartment in an otherwise reservation-based long distance train. The main settlement is along Banamali Sarkar Street in north Kolkata. The western boundary of the place, marked by the river, has remained largely unchanged; while the other peripheries have changed quite dramatically in the last three centuries. The urban sprawl of Kolkata is clearly evident all around the settlement of the 150-odd artisan families. The Kumortuli modernization project, worth Rs.260 million, planned under the Jawaharlal Nehru Urban Renewal Mission, is moving at a slow pace. According to the project blueprint, the urban authority will construct houses for the artisans over five acres of land in the Kumortuli area on the ground-plus-three-floors pattern. It will also build an art gallery for artisans to showcase their artefacts. Currently, some artisans have been relocated to a temporary space in a warehouse. But many artisans are still operating from their decrepit quarters, often spilling in to the streets and living under leaking roofs. They make the idols for a variety of festivals round the year, but Durga Puja in October is the most important event. Kumortuli images are generally ordered well in advance and there a few for off-the-shelf sale. Nowadays, Kumortuli’s clientele has extended to North America, Europe, Africa and even Australia, among the Indian communities living there.





I like to visit the temporary workshop on Rabindra Sarani, since it provides a great view of the works by various artisans under one roof, and it is possible to see the images in various styles, stages of finish and even components. For example, you will find a number of the heads- all looking exactly the same, which are probably cast in moulds and left to dry. It is unique to see semblance of mass production in an otherwise skill-based operation. But about 80 percent of the work is still hand-made by the artisans. Depending on the time you visit, you will either find the artisans either creating the skeleton by typing stacks of hay to a simple bamboo structure; or putting the first layer of clay to resemble the flesh and giving the idol a basic shape, or the clay being shaped for the final form with great care and being blow-dried on some occasions. Closer to the finish time, you will find the idols and their obedient animal follower being draped in fineries and painted with great care. An intriguing ritual of collecting the first clay sample from a prostitute's courtyard is still followed today in spirit. The priest himself is mandated to go for this important aspect of the ritual, and the most auspicious method of collection is to beg it from a prostitute and have her hand it over as a gift or blessing. The fitting finale is the day of Mahalaya, a week before the commencement of the Puja, when traditionally the eyes of the idols are drawn. I have read descriptions of artisans creating the idol of famous family-organized pujas at site meditating for hours in front of the idol with closed eyes and then suddenly with a swift stroke of the brush the third eye of the Goddess is drawn, as if with divine inspiration and the idol comes alive from that moment.






While the budget for the Kolkata Durga Pujas have multiplied manifold, thanks to the zeal of the sponsors to be seen and/or heard to the millions of prospective consumers, the price of the art churned out by the artisans have not gone up in any proportion beyond the normal inflation rate. In other words, the power of market forces which has bankrolled the individual puja organizers with unbelievable amounts of money (sometimes reported as over Rs. 2 million for a single puja organizer from a single sponsor) has not rubbed off its sheen on the economic condition of the artisans. Be it the idol makers, be it the traditional drummers (called Dhaki's- a puja is not worth its name till the sound of this instrument fills the air) or the thousands of craftsmen who painstakingly put together the marvelous structures (called Pandals). They are still mostly piece rate producers. "Darkness under the lamp"- an age-old proverb and still very valid. I cannot help think that in some other societies of the world, these craftsmen would have been the real celebrities of the event, not the fat cat organizers/the Very Improtant Persons who patronize and inaugurate the pujas.

Gobindaram Mitra, one of the famous residents of this area, was one of the earliest Indian officials under the British rule and earned a reputation for his wealth and extravagance. He was a tax collector for the East India Company. He was one of the earliest patrons of Durga Puja in Kolkata, and his celebration was marked with lavishness and extravagance. The entire image of goddess Durga was wrapped in gold and silver leaf. Thirty to fifty maunds (one maund is about 37 kg) of rice was offered to the deity, a thousand Brahmins were fed and given gifts. Mitra had a sprawling house at Kumortuli spread on 50 bighas (around 16 acres) of land. He also built a famous temple known as the Navaratna Temple, which became famous as the Black Pagoda. the Temple had a tower of 165 meter high and served as a navigational aid to the European sailors till it was destroyed in a major storm in 1737. Banamali Sarkar, after whom the main street of Kumortuli area is named, was also a wealthy resident of that area, famous for his palatial house that was the subject of urban folklores.

Last year, I visited when the idols were being finished. My lasting visual from that trip was the Asur (demon) being dried with a blow-torch; and my favorite Himalayan lion (who carries Goddess Durga on his back in her fight with the demons) being draped with pieces of towel, which will be painted to perfection as the animal's skin. My first visit this year was in end-August. I had two visitors in town, new in India and visiting Kolkata for the first time. We visited the workshop when the idols were in their median stage of creation. They could see abundance of semi-finished clay structures and artisans working to finish this stage before they move on to the painting stage. For the un-initiated, it is hard to believe that these creations are done to be destroyed only after four days of worship. I visited a week later and loved the walk during daytime along the streets of Kumortuli and watching the clay being kneaded with rice husk (which gives strength to the clay), potters painting some of the smaller idols and the excited photographer groups (seemed like photography school students) happily clicking away every bit of visual available. I also greatly enjoyed talking to some of the artisans. I plan to go back on the day of the Mahalaya next week, to see the drawing of the eyes on this auspicious day.

Note on how to reach- the nearest railway station to Kumortuli is the Sovabazar Metro. Sovabazar Ferry Ghat (alongside the Hugli river) is also close by. I like to walk down from the Sovabazar Metro Station, take a turn along Rabindra Sarani and enter Banamali Sarkar Street on the left or keep walking straight towards the temporary shed.

Kumortuli is a must-see for any visitor to Kolkata, particularly for the period of August-October. But first, the residents of Kolkata must be more aware of what happens there; how much skill, hard work, devotion and perfection is required to present the majestic idols in front of millions of viewers and worshippers; and what the city has done (or not done) to improve the quality of life for the artisans. Citizens must be proud of the artisans of Kumortuli, and their fellow-artisans in other fields of traditional creativity who work to make the Durga Puja of Kolkata such a memorable event. If we consider Durga Puja a cornerstone of "Bangaliyana" and the sponsors consider the carnival that goes around this so-called religious event as manna for economic blessings, then it is time everyone pays attention to the men who create the magic and nourish the soil which holds the roots of this giant tradition.

Te Papa

Toi te Kupu- using word to pass on information.
Toi te Mana- using art to pass on information
Toi te Whenua- using the land to pass on information

Kupu- word
Mana- prestige
Whenua (pronounced as fenua)- land

Simple words and expressions of the Maori tribal language of New Zealand, but profound in explaining the life and belief of the tribal community in any part of the world.

These are fruits of wisdom gained from my conversation Lisa Rewati, Maori Educator in Te Papa- New Zealand’s national museum in Wellington.


The discussion started during my visit to the Museum at the time of a photo exhibit titled "Lens on the World" by Brian Blake. I was intrigued by a picture postcard in the Museum souveneir store with a photo titled "Monsoon Girl" attributed to Brian Blake. The picture was of a young girl, enjoying the feel of rain in her face with closed eyes, as if she was in a trance. The girl seemed quite Indian, and quite familiar too. It took me about a minute to re-wire my brain and realize the picture was of our very own Aparna Sen, in her teens! The photo did not mention her name anywhere. The connection seemed so unlikely that I felt compelled to investigate further. I went up to the two ladies in the Museum Information Desk to find out how our very own Aparna Sen's photo found its way in to a tribal culture showcase in the middle of Pacific Ocean in the Southern Hemisphere. The old lady was actually quite pleased with my question, and explained that Brian Blake (1927-1988) was New Zealand's most celebrated photographer. His entire collection of photographs is now housed at the Te Papa Museum. As an international photojournalist, he photographed for picture magazines such as Life, National Geographic and Paris Match. He traveled extensively around the world, and his most famous work was on the monsoon rains in India in 1960. This essay yielded the widely reproduced Monsoon girl photograph. He actually clicked the photo of 14-year Aparna Sen! I later learnt from Google that this was when she was filming for Satyajit Ray’s Samapti (in another version, the photo shoot was in the roof of her house). Blake found interest in other subjects in India too, including Kashmir in 1957; the Russian-managed construction of a steel mill at Durgapur in 1958; the 1959 flight of the Dalai Lama from Tibet; the Indian film industry in 1961; the legacy of the English in India in 1962; and the 1963 wedding of American socialite Hope Cooke to the crown prince of Sikkim.

The conversation moved from Brian Blake to the striking similarity of Maori art, craft and way of ilfe with the tribal communities in India. Indeed, the harmonious existence with nature, the worship of the nature's forces and sustainable livelihood practices are so similar in all the aboriginal communities, you cannot but believe that world was probably far more globalized in the pre-historic times than it is now! I have seen art, implements, handicrafts and daily use materials in the National Museum of American Indian in Washington DC which looks so similar to that of our North-East India tribal communities. The Maori collection in Te Papa confirmed the same hypothesis. When I mentioned this, the young lady named Lisa Rewati, a Maori herself, joined the conversation and emphatically agreed to my point of view. She told me about the three principles mentioned above which Maori's believe. Lisa and her elderly colleague expressed keen interest in India- our diversity of culture, our social values, our tourist locations and our art. They handed me a bagful of high-quality printed brochures on the daily tours, multimedia show schedules, long-term exhibitions, creative hands-on activities for kids, upcoming discussions titled "Storyplace", other events in that month and picture postcards featuring 'ponamu"- the revered greenstone of South Islands of New Zealand.

The Te Papa Museum's collection spans five areas: Art, History, Pacific, Māori, and Natural Environment. The Māori name of the Museum, 'Te Papa Tongarewa', literally means ‘container of treasures'. Visitors are able to interact with a large satellite map of New Zealand laid out on the floor. The Pacific Collection within the History section has about 13,000 historic and contemporary items from the Pacific Islands. The Natural History section has the world's largest specimen of the rare colossal squid- 500 kgs and 33-foot (10 m) long. The squid arrived at the museum in March 2007 after being captured by New Zealand fisherman in the Ross Sea off Antarctica.













Among the different exhibits in the Maori section, it was interesting to see the centrality and reverence to a variety of jade or greenstone, locally called "Pounamu". Pounamu plays a very important role in Māori culture. It is considered a taonga (treasure). Tools, ornaments and weapons are made from it. These were believed to have their own "mana", were handed down as valued heirlooms and were often given as gifts to seal important agreements. The stone is found only in the South Island of New Zealand, known in Māori as Te Wai Pounamu ("The [land of] Greenstone Water") or Te Wahi Pounamu ("The Place of Greenstone"). [edit] Modern usePounamu jewellery is popular among New Zealanders and is often presented as gifts to visitors.














The Museum building is on the waterfront in Wellington, on Cable Street. Inside the building are six storeys of exhibitions, cafés and gift shops dedicated to New Zealand's culture and environment. Earthquake strengthening was achieved through the New Zealand-developed technology of base isolation- essentially seating the entire building on supports made from lead, steel and rubber that slow down the effect of an earthquake. The 36,000 square metre building had cost NZ$300 million by its opening in 1998. It was amazing to see how much effort, imagination and passion was involved in creating the museum, with a relatively small diversity of collection compared to us. When shall we gift ourselves such a innovative, interactive and visitor-focussed museum experience? "The answer my friend is blowing in the wind, the answer is blowing in the wind."

Iti-Punoscho

Ever since I read William Dalrymple's "Nine Lives: In search of the Sacred in Modern India", I have been fascinated by one of the nine events he experienced- the Theyyam in Kerala. The more I studied about this custom in "Google University", the more I was fascinated and wanted to experience it myself. This fitted perfectly with my new-found love of religious and festival tourism. My agenda is similar to Dalrymple's- experience the event as an observer without being judgemental, have some opportunity for photographic documentation, and come back with enough material to write a blog on it. So, when I had a reason to be in Bangalore in February, I decided to add a weekend and go up to northern Kerala see Theyyam. I researched extensively and found help from unexpected quarters. That set me up for a lifetime opportunity to experience Theyyam- well, almost. Read on.

What is Theyyam:
Theyyam is a popular Hindu ritual form of worship of North Malabar in Kerala state, predominant in the Kasargod and Kannur Districts, and parts of Wayanad and Kozhikode. It is a living Dravidian cult with several thousand-year-old traditions, rituals and customs. The performers of Theyyam belong to the indigenous tribal community. The ruling landlord communities like the Nambiars were patrons of Theyyam. This is unique, since only in Kerala, do both the upper-caste Brahmins and lower-caste tribals share an important position in a major form of worship. The term Theyyam is a corrupt form of Devam or God. Different branches of mainstream Hindu religion such as Shaktism, Vaishnavism and Shaivism now dominate the cult of Theyyam. Two major Theyyam deities of Vaishnavism are Vishnumoorthi and Daivathar. All other categories of Theyyam deities can be classified under Shaivism or Shaktism. The Goddesses like Rakteshwari, Chamundi, Someshwari, Kurathi, and the Gods like Vishnumoorthi are propitiated in sacred groves & house-hold shrines, locally called "kavu". The performance takes place in an open theatre. A performance of a particular deity according to its significance and hierarchy in the shrine continues for 12 to 24 hours with intervals. The chief dancer who plays and personifies the deity of the shrine has to reside in the rituals and is generally called ‘Kolam’. The performance is always preceded by preliminary rituals. After this the performer will retire to a temporary structure to be made up and costumed. When the moment comes, he will enter the shrine to complete the ancient and complex process that has already begun edging him out into an extraordinary otherness. The most sacred and powerful element of the costume, the mudi or headdress, is put on once the artist has been seated on a sacred stool in front of the sanctum. After this comes the actual moment of "becoming" the deity, the moment of crossing the line, as he stares into a small hand-held mirror. It is at this point that, almost imperceptibly, he slips into another state of being, his eyes widening as they focus not on his own reflection, but on the enigmatic features of a divine being. This is the moment of fusion, the defining moment known as "mukhadarshanam", or the seeing of the face. It is the moment when a mortal becomes a god. In the background, folk musical instruments like chenda, tuti, kuzhal and veekni are played in a certain rhythm. All the dancers take a shield and kadthala (sword) in their hands as continuation of the cult of weapons. Then the dancer circumambulates the shrine, runs in the courtyard and continues dancing there. The Theyyam dance has different steps known as Kalaasams. Each Kalaasam is repeated systematically from the first to the eighth step of footwork. There are different patterns of face-painting. Mostly primary and secondary colours are applied with contrast for face painting. It helps in effecting certain stylization in the dances. A performance is a combination of playing of musical instruments, vocal recitations, dance, and peculiar makeup and costumes. The stage-practices of Theyyam and its ritualistic observations make it one of the most fascinating theatrical arts of India- text quoted from Wikipedia & http://www.vengara.com/

Some Theyyams use nearly 50 or 60 feet high long crowns or Mutis made out of arecanut tree and bamboo splices. These crowns are supported by long bamboos which are held by several helpers to keep the balance when placed upon the head of the player. The Thottam or the song related to the particular Theyyam deity is recited by the player and by the singers in the background. Of over 400 varieties of Theyyam performed, the most prominent one are those of Raktha Chamundi, Kari Chamundi, Muchilottu Bhagavathi, Wayanadu Kulaveni, Gulikan and Pottan- http://www.mapsofindia.com/maps/kerala/performing-arts/theyyam.html

Karimchamundi Theyyam is one very rare Theyyam because of its scary nature. It is performed in the regions of Perumba river. Earlier the Theyyam festival of Karim Chamundi required the sacrifice of a goat. Now this Theyyam performance has an act of killing chickens by biting in the neck and plucking off the head and throwing it in the air. With dark coloured face paintings the Theyyam performed at midnight is frightening. Women and children are not permitted to watch the Karim Chamundi Theyyam. Two Karim Chamundi Theyyams which I could identify this year are as follows:
Start: January 27, 2011
Venue: Azheekode Elamkarumakan Kshethram, Azheekode, Kannur
Start: January 22, 2011; End: January 26, 2011
Venue: Myladathadam Elangarumakan Kshethrolsavam, Azheekode, Kannur

My destination for Theyyam was Kannur (or Cannanore) and my base camp for Theyyam visit plan was Bangalore, so I will give details which I worked out for my trip, hoping that it benefits others who might want to witness this great event in the next season (Jan-March) or beyond.

Location of Kannur: Kannur is on the National Highway 17 (NH-17) connecting Kochi and Mumbai. Two airports- one at Mangalore in the north and one at Kozhikode (Calicut) in the south — are about 100 kilometres away from Kannur. Road distance of Kannur from Bangalore is about 340 km and from Chennai it is about 600 km.

Transportation alternatives from Bangalore to Kannur, apart from driving down, are as below:
1) Trains- 16527/16528 Cannanore Express from/to Yesvantpur station (I booked on this, easier to get tickets) & 16517/16518 Kannur Express (from/to Bangalore SBC). Takes between 13-15 hrs (rail distance much longer than road), but both are overnight trains departing between 8 & 9 pm.

2) Buses:
Karnataka SRTC Buses (Rajhansa- non-Volvo): http://ksrtc.in/; departing from Bangalore Bus Depot; journey time 9-10 hrs
Contact: KSRTC Majestic- 080-2226 9508; KSRTC Satellite- 080-2675 6666

Kerala Road Transport Corporation- Buses leave from Satellite Bus Staion in Mysore Road, Bangalore; arrive at Majestic/Bangalore SBC Railway Station. Advance booking counter at Majestic Bus Staion- the online booking does not seem to work: http://www.keralartc.com/
Kerala SRTC: Control Room: Landline- 0471-2463799; Cell: 9447071021
Kerala SRTC- Kannur: 0471-2463799; 094470 71021

Bus fares: Rs. 250-350/-

Stay Options:
1) Malabar Residency (http://www.malabarresidency.in/)- (this is where I booked)
Thavakkara Road, Kannur-670 001, Kerala, S. India
Ph: (91) 0497 - 2765456, 2701654, 2701655; Fax: (91) 0497 – 2765456
E - mail: malabarresidency2004@yahoo.co.in
Contact: Shaji, Room Division Manager (094970 41118)
Rate: Rs. 1200 +12.5% tax – 10% discount = Rs. 1215/night for standard room (Feb 2011)
2) Ganga Residency- http://www.gangaresidency.com/ (my travel advisor suggested this)

Near Talikkavu Temple, Kannur 6700001. 300 meters from station, 200 meters from Bus stand. Tel: 095266 08951/0497 2712079; Email: gangaresidency@in.com Charges Rs. 900-1200 per night (Feb 2011). Staion pickup available.
3)Pranav Beach Resort- http://www.pranavbeachresort.in/ (read about this in a blog)

Beach Road, Palliyanmoola, Alavil, Kannur 670008. Tel: 0497 3207926/2741148; 09387478285; Email: pranavbeach@rediffmail.com; Contact: Mr. N.P. Venugopalan; “We have non-airconditioned independent cottages in the tariff range of Rs.800/- to Rs.1000/- per day and air-conditioned cottages for Rs.1600/- per day.”- Feb 2011]

Theyyam Options:
Full calender of different Theyyam performances available at the following websites:
http://www.theyyamcalendar.com/
http://www.theyyam.org/pages/newsdesk/10000theyyamcal04.asp
http://www.kaliyattam.com/theyyam.php
http://www.vengara.com/theyyam/theyyamcalendar.htm

These websites also have some great pictures of Theyyam performances. Note that Theyyam dates change every year.

Some great Theyyam videos with narration: http://wn.com/kannur_theyam

The Theyyam that I planned on visiting: Mykeel Sri Karimkuttysasthan Temple, Pulimparamba, Taliparamba, Kannur (http://www.mykeel.in/)- 22 kms from Kannur. This was provided to me by the most helpful and passionate person dedicated in promoting Theyyam- Santhosh, and his group of friends- who developed the site: www.vengara.com in their effort to promote Theyyam in a selfless way. I remain indebted to him for helping me out with my travel plans and giving me full support and confidence all the way. Thank you- stranger friend!

Now, if you are wondering why I have not used any pictures but indulging in this "textual atyachar" through a long-winding travel research on Theyyam, the reason is I pulled out of the trip at the last moment. Mat pucho kyu. I didn't go. But, I will. Sometime soon. Iti-Punoscho :-)

Till then, if you are interested, keep researching with me and imagining yourself to have transcended in the middle of a pre-Vedic ritual at midnight where a dancer with elaborate make-up and costume believes that he is "God" for that time and enacts a complete mythological episode for hours with frenzied energy, repeatedly dives in to smoundering ember in complete oblivion of the world around him. That person, in a week, will go back to his daily chores- maybe as an agricultural labor or restaurant waiter or jail warden, as in the case of Hari Das- one of the most famous exponents of Theyyam and central character in Dalrymple's episode on the subject. I end by quoting him about the experience of Theyyam from his interview with the Outlook magazine in October 2009: "I always get very tense, even though I have been doing this for 26 years now. It’s not that I am nervous of the god coming. It’s more the fear that he might refuse to come. It’s the intensity of your devotion that determines the intensity of the possession. If you lose your feeling of devotion, if it even once becomes routine or unthinking, the gods may stop coming...It’s like a blinding light...When the drums are playing and your make-up is finished, they hand you a mirror and you look at your face transformed into that of a god. Then it comes. It’s as if there is a sudden explosion of light. A vista of complete brilliance opens up—it blinds the senses...That light stays with you all the way during the performance. You become the deity. You lose all fear. Even your voice changes. The god comes alive and takes over. You are just the vehicle, the medium. In the trance, it is god who speaks, and all the acts are the acts of the god—feeling, thinking, speaking. The dancer is an ordinary man—but this being is divine. Only when the head-dress is removed does it end...Suddenly it’s all over, it’s gone. You don’t have any access to what happened during the possession or the performance. You can’t remember anything that happened in the trance. All there is, is a sensation of relief, as if you’ve offloaded something”

Calcutta vs Bangalore- "Amra-Ora" Issues

I visited Bangalore for a week in mid-February. I heard many things about Bangalore- with many friends, relatives and batchmates settled there, that's inevitable. I really liked the place during my trip. Had some memories of the place from a childhood visit, and then some more memories from a trip there some years back. But this time, had much more extensive travel around the city at different days and times of the week, so got a good flavor of the place. Inevitably, some comparisons came in to mind with my very own and much loved city- Kolkata.

Modern version of both cities had a shared ancestory in the unlikely architecture of a mud fort (by Kempe Gowda in Bangalore in 1537 and Fort William in Calcutta by the East India Company in 1702). Both cities were home to military cantonment during the British period. Calcutta had its first electricity in 1899, Bangalore in 1906. Calcutta was known as the "City of Palaces" and Bangalore as the "Garden City".

Cut to present. Calcutta is a classic example of urban mismanagement. Some of the cancers which are eating in to the city's foundations are unplanned and unregulated growth, populist but utterly ineffective urban governance, migration of an unmanageable number of people from a huge rural hinterland in search of a better life, lack of civic sense of a part of the population, "unbridled democratic expressions" of political parties, possibly the world's most chaotic transportation system (one day I counted 27 different varieties of public buses in terms of shape, size, make, color scheme, transport agency, ownership, operatorship- it is virtually a free-for-all) and an overall falling standard of excellence in almost all spheres of life. The time-tested architecture standards and building rules seem to have conveniently changed/made flexible in the last decade and half, resulting in structures that should not be there or at least be built differently. This unregulated real-estate boom is coupled with three more visual pollution parameters- hoardings of all sizes in front of any public or private or heritage building, slums right beside main thoroughfares and encroachers at every conceivable place; making Kolkata one of the ugliest among the 26 "magacities" (population of over 10 million) of the world. Public parks and gardens are few and ill-maintained. Hardly any government building or public area is landscaped. Greenery is more of a inheritence and a survivor of apathy than conscious effort of the Parks & Gardens Department. Encroachers are everywhere- name any public place that you see empty today and tomorrow it will be filled up with people you never wanted to see. "Hawker Policy" allows hawking on 1/3rd portion of sidewalks and not within 50 feet of any crossing. In reality, less than 1/3 of all major footpaths are left open forpedestrians. Ideally, if you are not a customer you should walk sideways so that you do not distrurb the hawkers and their buyers! There is not even enough headroom for anyone taller than 5 feet, with bags and nighties hanging over your head to maximize display- for experiencing it, walk the 5 km stretch between Gariahat and Rashbehari. Unfortunately, no politican who patronizes these practices ever walk on these stretches. Official logic for allowing the 0.5 million hawkers and encroachers a free run on footpaths, forcing pedestrians to walk on the road is apparently "human face"; reality is much more tangible and rewarding, as we all know. The only group who pays the bill for such comatosed governance is the tax-paying, law abiding, non-unionized middle class. And the future of the city gets buried deeper and deeper in the abyss of hopelessness. As a resident who is proud of the history and heritage of the city, I feel pained and frustrated at this downhill slide.

My outsider's impression of Bangalore was however quite refreshing. The city seems to have maintained control on its growth, even in face of the tremendous growth the city has witnessed in the last two decades ever since it became the hot business destination in India. Ironically, about 5% of Bangalore's population are Bengalis, most of them first-generation migrants in search of livelihood. The buildings in an area have architectural parity with one another, and no ugly hoardings come up blocking the frontage of any important building. Overall, the buildings in the city are low-rise, which coupled with the abundant greenery makes the city look beautiful. Most of the government buildings have a manicured garden, and the agencies are proud about the same. The climate is nice, as Bangalore has always been known for. The infrastructure that has been put in is generally of a high standard. I did not see any encroacher occupying the sidewalks or below the flyovers. Transport (even the autos- there are many here too) is not unruly, buses stop only at designated stops and do not solicit passengers at every inch of its journey. The airport, both inside and outside, operates with clinical efficiency. This is a direct contrast to the chaos that greets any passenger as soon as he steps out of the arrival terminal in Kolkata airport. The real difference in my opinion is the work culture. Bangalore transport is almost entirely controled by the government, including taxis. The transport system is many times more efficient, but prices are comparable with Kolkata. The AC buses provided by Government of India under JNURM scheme has been put to good use- the Volvo buses run on common public routes with extremely affordable fare levels. In Kolkata, I am told over 300 new buses are just rotting in the depot because the private operators are not willing to run them even after more than 60% subsidy being provided by the government. The taxi service at airport and station, the layout of and passenger amenities provided in long-distance bus stations are all much much superior to what we see in Kolkata. Overall, the government seems to function much better and governance seems to be of a much higher order in Bangalore compared to Kolkata. Whether this is only due to the government, or the (un)governed, or both, can be a subject of an interesting debate.

I am surprised that I just finished writing this piece and is about to publish it- I have always fought with those who criticized Calcutta, and I still love the city. I strain my eyes for everything that we can be proud of. I returned to work the city in mid-90s, resigning from a lucrative job in Bombay- this was at a time when professionals of my background queued up for the first flight/train out of the city (probably most still do). I drive around the city in the early mornings of Sundays and public holidays, looking for hidden treasures of architecture, food, nature spots and people. I regularly read about and talk to people about the past glories of Calcutta- "the city of palaces" and the "crowning jewel of the British empire". I regularly take visitors out to Calcutta's places of interest. I travel frequently and have visited many cities. Never I had this urge of direct comparison and felt so helpless, frustrated and insulted with the results. It is possible that Calcutta has not changed- only my views are changing. But even that does not augur well for the city, if a die-hard resident fan like me start singing a discordant tune.

Hail "Thor"

Banana stem- commonly called "thor" in Bengali community, has graduated from an ordinary fibrous vegetable used widely for cooking and medicical purposes, to an elite league. I witnessed the graduation first hand- in a five star hotel. Right under my eyes, "thor" proved itself to be the "secret sauce" in the florist's repertoire of floral decorations that was billed for a (very) tidy sum of money. Now you get what I am aiming at- "thor" is being used extensively for marriage venue decorations!

It may be a coincidence, or destiny of this blog, that I witnessed large bunches of "thor" (full length large stem from full-grown banana trees) at New Jalpaiguri station when I was returning to Kolkata last week. I was curious, thought aimlessly about the intended purpose of the same, could not fathom much, and moved on to other thoughts. Cut to today evening, when I was in charge of the venue management for a friend's wedding ceremony at a five star hotel in Kolkata. I reached when the florist was half-way done; first thing that caught my attention was the preponderance of "thor" inside the banquet hall. Half-cut longitudinal sections were used to demarcate borders of different lines of flowers in the backdrop behind the ceremonial platform; four "thor" coloumns were used in different strategic locations of the venue; at the entrance there was table decoration using "thor". Each "thor" decoration was brightly lit with focus lights shining on it, and it dazzled in its new-found glory. It is evidently a florists delight- cheap price, white color, shiny texture, eminently "pinnable", strong yet soft, and can be cut to any size and shape. I initially chuckled at the turn of fortune for this humble middle class vegetable, and could not help rewind to the memory of "thor" consignments at Siliguri, which I now understood was heading for a grand wedding ceremony. The florist proudly declared that her decoration was "organic" in nature- she could easily have said "partially edible"! I also overheard her telling her workforce to use the item judiciously- as each piece costs Rs. 70 ($1.8). I wondered if the banana stems found their way to the market the next day, through the incredibly efficient recycling market of India.

When someone moves up in the corporate ladder, you do not expect him to do the jobs he left behind. Likewise, understandably, there was no "thor" item in the menu.

Here's your treatise on "thor" = banana stem = the tender core of the banana plant's trunk. First, it is an effective diet to lose weight. It is rich in fibre and can be had as a juice or as a cooked food. People suffering from kidney stones can have the juice extract prepared from the tender core of the banana’s trunk as a remedy. It is diuretic in nature and helps to get rid of the toxins in the body. It is a mild laxative too. Banana’s stem helps to cool the body. Like banana, banana stem is also rich in potassium and vitamin B6. Vitamin B6 helps production of chemicals such as hemoglobin and insulin. Again, it improves the ability of body to fight against infection. Potassium helps effective functioning of muscles including cardiac muscles, prevents high blood pressure, helps nerve impulses and maintains fluid balance within the body. It is a popular food in the South India- called as “Vazhai Thandu” in Tamil. It can also be cooked as a vegetable, as done in Bengal. "Thor" is a very good source of cellulose, therefore it can be used to make paper. Banana production in India is the highest, and the area under it’s cultivation is second largest, among all fruit crops grown in India. Banana stem is usually thrown away or sold at throwaway price by the farmers after harvesting.

So, "thor" has arrived; traveling beyond the food plate of traditional Bengalis and South Indians, in to the minds of health conscious urban citizens of India, and finally in the marriage venue decorations of upwardly mobile middle class. Hail "thor"!

Where are the Lions gone?

It is Durga Puja time. Goddess Durga rides a majestic, powerful lion given to her by Himalaya to defeat the demon king Mahisashura in the epic battle. the fight between good and evil continues, from the pre-Vedic period to the 21st century. But, the question is, where are the lions gone?

According to Wikipedia, until the late Pleistocene, 10000 years ago, lion was the most widespread large mamal after humans. They were found in most of Africa, accross Eurasia- from Western Europe to India and in East Asia. The Persian lion, once a royal symbol in ancient Persia, is now exinct in Iran. In ancient Egypt, lion was associated with death and rebirth. King Tut's tomb held a sphinx statue and many artwork depicting lions. Ancient China held lions in high esteem, although the animal was never indegenous species of that country. Stories of lions were carried along the Silk Route from Iran, Afganistan and by the Buddists who traveled from India; and lions were placed in front of many important palaces and was regarded as the "ninth son of the dragon".



Now, a small population of lions exist in Sub-Saharan Africa and a critically endangered population of Asiatic lions exists in the Gir National Forest in Gujarat, India. In September 2006, Conde Nast Traveler published a wonderful report titled "Where are all the Lions Gone?" on the status of African Lions- read it at: http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/articles/10417?pageNumber=5&all=yes
The number of remaining lions in India is estimated to be little over 300. The population had dwildled to 20 in the early 1900, but conservation effort in the last century has resulted in some increase in population. However, large number of deaths have also been reported in the Gir forest in the recent years, which has alarmed the conservationists. A debate to resettle a part of the lion population in Kuno Sanctuary in Madhya Pradesh has not yet been settled. Asiatic lion adorns India's national emblem- based on a sculpture created by Emperor Ashoka in 250 BC. It was India's national animal, until 1973 when it was replaced with the tiger.

Some interesting facts about lions-

a) lions spend much of their time resting. They are inactive for about 20 hours in a day. Their activity usually peaks after dusk. They spend about two hours in a day walking and 50 minutes eating.

b) lions are unusually social compared to other cats. A pride usually consists on related females, several offsprings and a small number of adult males. Social licking and head rubbing are their favorite pastime while resting.

c) lions are only members of the cat family to exhibit sexual dimorphism- males and females look distinctly different

d) lionesses do most of the hunting for the pride- being smaller, swifter and without the heavy and conspicuous mane

e) lions occasionally breed with tigers, to produce ligers and tigons



Lions are fighting an uphill battle, particularly in India. The cause for near-extinction is mostly conflict with humans. Lions are fearless and move around in groups. Ever since guns were invented, they were sitting ducks to humans. First there were the "hunters" who hunted for pleasure, then they have been replaced with poachers. Urbanization has been a death knell to many animal species, including lions. A lion was found crushed to death on the bank of the Hiran river in Gujarat, when it fell from a bridge 60 feet high, apparently because it was either hit or scared by a car in to the fatal jump. Loss of habitat is another obvious reason. An interesting observation was made by my friend's octogenarian father, who once said- "tigers drove away the lions". There might be a real truth behind this apparently light comment. Tigers share the same habitat with the lions, but are far more stealthy and cunning. They also do not move around in groups. In the Suderbans, which is the habitat of the famous Royal Bengal Tiger, there is a folk belief that if you "see" a tiger, you do not live to tell the story.

And, finally, a familiar paradox of Indian governmental funding and budgetary allocation- while tiger population has reduced in Maharastra, Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh inspite of huge funding for conservation effort, the population of lions in Gujarat has increased, even with the paltry sum allocated for conservation. The credit surely goes to the wildlife authorities and local people of that state, who made it one of the most significant success stories of wildlife conservation. Wishing lions a happy and safe future, and hope Goddess Durga continues to bless this majestic animal so that it lives the earth for many centuries to come.

Me & Montana

I have a new love :-)

And I am not joking. I am in love with Montana- the wilderness state of North America. Located in North-western part of the country and covering an area of 146,316 sq miles (slightly larger than Germany and 12% of India), Montana shares its entire northern border with Canada and is bound by North Dakota and South Dakota in the east, Idaho (and Rocky Mountains) the west and Wyoming in the south. The state is predominantly rural, with large deposits of minerals like coal and oil (it is described as the Saudi Arabia of America). The largest cities here are Billings, Great Falls, Missoula, Bozman, Helena, Butte-Silver Bow and Livingston. Only three among these have population over fifty thousand, and none above one lakh (one hundred thousand, as described in U.S.). The population density of the state is 6.2 people per square mile! Coming from the city of Kolkata with a population density of over 64,000 per square mile, it was a huge cultural shock for me as I was driven around the vast open stretches of land and see the emptiness all around. Most places beyond the cities are devoid of any human settlement or even large animals. It is called the “Big Sky Country” for a good reason indeed. Wherever I went, the vast open blue dome was there for us, bordered on the horizon with green mountains. I stayed in three cities in four days, and drove about 800 miles in those days, which gave me a good perspective of the place and its people.

First, the pace of life is slower and people are extremely nice and friendly. They love to talk, are not in a hurry, and extremely polite. Sometimes it was even difficult to end a conversation politely and hang up the phone. Even at the airport, the usually stern looking airline staff and the even sterner TSA Officers scanning people and luggage never appeared daunting. When I settled down in the staircase to tie my shoe-lace after the security check, one TSA Officer told me nicely- “you could use the chair?” Many more such small gestures from local people touched my heart. Front and center of my local experience was my friendly colleague and his wife who were my travel partners for all these four days.

People here are just used to travel long distances. At least three company representatives, including two ladies, drove 3 hours each way just to have a 1-hour meeting with me. And remember, in Montana, the speed limit is higher- 75 miles per hour. My colleague was fresh as a daisy even after driving 14 hours on the day we went in to Yellowstone National Park. As I said, I rode about 800 miles in my three-day stay in the state.

Montana is bitterly cold for five months of the year. Half the state lies over 4,000 feet above sea level. Generally, the first snow of the season coats the higher mountain elevations in Montana in September. Occasionally the snow will also reach the lower elevations, although the snow will not stick around long. The winter recreation (skiing, snow mobile) season generally extends from late November through March. Annual snowfall varies from quite heavy, 300 inches, in some parts of the mountains in the western half of the State, to around 20 inches at some locations. Most of the larger cities have annual snowfall within the 30 to 50 inch range. Temperatures can range from 50 degrees above zero to 50 below, but averages generally run from 20 to 35 degrees above zero, with mostly sunny skies. Winters, while usually cold, have few extended cold spells. Between cold waves there are periods, sometimes longer than 10 days, of mild but often windy weather. The snow can get as high as 5-6 feet and covers all areas from mountaintops to driveways. I am told it is good for the local animal and agricultural farms, since the melting snow is the only source of water for farming and animal husbandry. The state sees thunderstorms- many of the ones that occur during the summer, particularly over the mountainous areas, are considered dry thunderstorms. These are the most deadly of storms, since they produce huge amounts of lightning that spawn wildfires- while not dropping any rain.

I arrived in Billings in south-central Montana on a Saturday evening, and I had the Sunday free before I began work on Monday. My colleague arrived the same day, and the plan was to have meetings with companies in Bozeman in south western Montana on Monday. Transportation method was of course to drive the distance. So, it was decided that we would drive through the Beartooth Highway- described as “the most beautiful drive in America”. The Beartooth Highway is the section of U.S. Highway 212 between Red Lodge, Montana and Cooke City, Montana. It traces a series of steep zigzags and switchbacks, along the Montana-Wyoming border to the 10,947 ft (3,337 m) high Beartooth Pass. The approximate elevation rise is from 5,200 ft (1,600 m) to 8,000 ft (2,400 m) in 12 mi (19 km) in the most daring landscapes. Because of heavy snowfall at the top, the pass is usually open each year only from Memorial Day in late May through Labor Day in September.

We started from Billings at 6:30 am and started driving towards the west. As we were leaving Billings, we passed by the city jail and my colleague told me a story of the jailor who was caught in a restaurant having a dinner date with one of his lady prisoners! In about an hour, we drove up to Red Lodge which is a small town and a base camp for Yellowstone tour from the eastern side. We loaded up on gas there, since we were told by the hotel staff that gas anywhere beyond this point would be costlier. We saw a deer ambling along in front of one of the houses- apparently, it is common sight.




Immediately after, the road started climbing up the mountains. However, the slope of the road was gentle. Interestingly, we could see groups of bikers (cyclists) and motorcyclists from Red Lodge, and we found them all along the route. The cyclists were traveling up all the way up the top, which we figured out after we talked to some of them at a viewpoint stop. They were of all ages, and I was amazed at their enthusiasm and stamina. Thinking of cycling from 5,500 to 9,000 feet would not occur to me in my wildest imagination. And when I learnt that their motivation of doing this is to zip down the mountain curves after they reach the summit, I admired their free spirit even more! It was certainly not easy, and we could see some of them struggling up the slope. However, the group was being covered by a SUV which carried spares and supplies. The motorcyclists were enjoying themselves and the sweet sound of their machines- dressed in proper gears and enjoying the mountains as they rode past us. After driving 21 miles, we first stopped at Rock Creek Vista Point, where we realized that we were already at elevation of 9000 feet. The place offered a panoramic view of the Beartooth Mountains, Hell Roaring and Silver Run Plateaus. The Custer National Forest is also located in this area. The place offered excellent photo opportunity, with scenic backgrounds and thoughtful tourist viewpoints overlooking the mountains. After starting from there, the road rose further and the picture-postcard mountain landscape started unveiling before our eyes. There were glaciers on the northern flank on almost every mountain and lakes all around. Some glaciers had reddish tinge, which I was told comes from grasshoppers that are frozen in the snow. We could even touch the snow at some locations on the roadside.
The road continued to climb as it crosses into Wyoming. At this point, the slopes tapered in to a plateau, with an elevation of 10,900 feet. The views were expansive, south across the canyons carved by the Clarks Fork, north into the Absaroka-Beartooth wilderness. In the wilderness, a narrow pyramidal spire is profiled against blue sky. This is the Bear's Tooth- Na Pet Say in the language of the local American Indian community - from which the mountains take their name. I literally felt I was at the top of the world. Needless to say, we clicked several pictures before resuming our journey again. The roads started descending from this point, and we passed by forest areas and several lakes with crystal blue water. We stopped by one to feel the water- however as soon as we stepped out of the car, we were swarmed by mosquitoes. Fortunately, the American mosquitoes are not known to carry malaria, dengue or other diseases.
Sixty-four miles from Red Lodge, after crossing back into Montana, the Beartooth enters Cooke City. Originally a gold-mining camp, Cooke City is now the northeastern gateway to Yellowstone National Park. It has a toy town look, with a population of 140 only! The local chamber of commerce runs a small but informative visitor education center that is manned by two local ladies. They were very nice and gave us helpful information about the park. We made a small contribution in the tip box, which helps to cover the cost of running the place. It was noon and we are some food there to get ourselves ready for the Yellowstone entry. Just a week before our travel, four grizzly bears attacked a campground half mile outside Cooke City and killed four persons who were sleeping in the campground. Everyone was still discussing the incident when we arrived. That prepared me to think of grizzlies for the rest of my day at Yellowstone.







Within four miles of Cooke City, we reached the Yellowstone National Park entrance. The entry fee is $25 per car and it is valid for seven days. As we entered, wide open grasslands bordered by mountains in the horizon greeted us. Yellowstone is world’s first national park, established in 1872. The Park covers an area of 3,468 sq miles (about 12 times size of Singapore). Approximately 96 percent of the land area of Yellowstone National Park is located within the state of Wyoming. Another 3 percent is within Montana, with the remaining 1 percent in Idaho. The Park sits on the Yellowstone Plateau, at an elevation of 8000 feet, and is bounded on all sides by mountain ranges. The park is 63 miles (101 km) north to south, and 54 miles (87 km) west to east. Rivers and lakes cover 5 percent of the land area, with the largest water body being Yellowstone Lake. Yellowstone Lake is up to 400 feet (120 m) deep and has 110 miles (180 km) of shoreline. At an elevation of 7,733 feet (2,357 m) above sea level, Yellowstone Lake is the largest high altitude lake in North America. Sub-alpine forests comprise 80 percent of the land area of the park; most of the rest is grassland. We took a relatively short northern loop inside the Park, in which we entered through Cooke City, went up to Tower Roosevelt (about 40 miles) to Canyon Village (19 miles) to Norris 12 miles) to Mammoth Hot Springs (21 miles) and exited from there. To drive through the bigger loop would require us to drive an additional 105 miles, which our time did not permit.

Within 10 minutes of entering the park, we could see a lone bison, and got excited about the viewing. My colleague reacted calmly, reminding me that I would see hundreds of them in the next few hours. Soon enough, we could soon see herds of bison out in the grassy wilderness. But our first major viewing was that of a grizzly bear, walking in a downhill slope, again on grassland, within about 60 feet of the road. We were one of the first to see it and stopped our car, to be joined by many other excited tourists. The forest ranger came in immediately, advising people to stay calm, maintain distance, stay near the cars and keeping a watchful eye on the overall situation. My colleague was very excited and he told me that a grizzly viewing opportunity is extremely are, and he has not seen one in spite of coming to the Park several times as a local resident. The bear had a cinnamon colored body and a black snout, and was apparently about two year old- just an early age of starting to live separately from the mother. It seemed to have mild temper and did not get bothered by the human presence in its surroundings. After taking some snaps, we moved on.

We then passed through an area which witnessed a devastating forest fire in the 1980s, that wiped out a major part of the vegetation. The forest is now regenerating itself. We then ran in to some kind of a traffic jam. The reason was soon evident- a large bison was standing patiently by the roadside, offering a fantastic photo opportunity to the tourists as they drove past slowly. We were not denied of the photo opportunity either, and got a great chance to take a close look at the American bison. It had a heavy fur coating which helps it to deal with the brutal winter of the place, and seemed to be much more docile than the Indian bison which are known to attack unprovoked (a forest ranger in Gorumara National Forest showed me a hole in his jeep’s body metal that was caused by a bison charging and hitting the jeep with its horn). Next, we again came up against a crowd that gathered to watch a family of 3 grizzly bears- mother and two cubs- in the grassland that sloped down from the high road. To see four grizzlies in a day is considered so rare that my friend started saying my presence was the lucky charm for him! We moved on and saw an elk in close range. In between the wildlife viewing, we saw some amazing geological formations. The Yellowstone River, going in to a magnificent waterfall, was a treat to watch. We could also see the caldera and the clear formation of the volcanic rocks. The viewpoints are strategically located to offer a great panorama of the key locations. From those locations, I really felt I have been transported back in time to when giant dinosaurs used to roam the area and volcanic eruptions shaped and reshaped the landscape. Indeed, the highest number of dinosaur fossils, including the first and also the largest fossil of T-Rex, have been found in Montana, which is known for its “Paleo treasures”! The Maiasaura nests found at Egg Mountain have been hailed as one of the most important discoveries ever for dinosaur biology. Apparently the Jurassic Park movie is based on a scientist that worked in one of the areas of Montana. The state has a Dinosaur Trail (www.mtdinotrail.org), dotted with several museums that offer tourists a sneak peek in to a world 150 million years back. Throughout Yellowstone, there are visible evidence of geothermal activity, with several hot springs and geysers dotting the landscape. About a thousand known geysers exist worldwide, roughly half of which are in Yellowstone National Park. A geyser is a spring characterized by intermittent discharge of water ejected turbulently and accompanied by a vapor phase (steam), and is found in volcanic areas. The most famous among the geysers is Old Faithful, which has a eruption height of 105 ft to 185 feet, and an eruption frequency of 45-125 minutes. In fact the Yellowstone area is part of the largest volcanic system of North America, and has been termed a “supervolcano”. Due to the volcanic and tectonic nature of the region, the area experiences between 1000 and 2000 measurable earthquakes a year.

We stopped at Crystal Rocks for a photo, and almost had as close encounter with a fourth grizzly. As I stylishly posed on a rock for my colleague to shoot a photo, the forest ranger came running and sternly told us to get back in to the car immediately. Why? Because a grizzly is within 300 yards! We scampered back in to the car and drove off. That might have been my last photo!

Our last stop in Yellowstone was at Mammoth Hot Springs in the north-west corner of the Park. Mammoth is a large limestone hill that has been created over thousands of years as hot water from the spring cooled and deposited calcium carbonate (over two tons flows into Mammoth each day in a solution). Algae living in the warm pools have tinted the travertine shades of brown, orange, red, and green.

I would love to go back to Yellowstone during the winter, when the park is frozen in snow but at its pristine best.

As we exited from the Park, we went through a beautiful stone arch gate that proclaimed Yellowstone’s claim to fame though a simple inscription- the first national park of America, created through a Congressional Proclamation in 1872. At the top of the gate is inscribed in large font- “For The Benefit & Enjoyment of The People”.

The emptiness surrounding the structure made the edifice more majestic and poignant. We moved on, after taking one last picture of the beautiful structure in the middle of emptiness. But by then, Yellowstone has been etched in my memory for ever.

Here & There

I just returned from a relatively long trip to U.S. Not as if I went for the first or second time, but I realized again that there are certain issues- "aamra vs ora" issues, which never cease to be different. It is purely cultural- it is impossible and unfair to comment whether any one side is better than the other. A neutral observer standpoint is the best position to have. So, here is my treatise on some fundamental cultural differences between India and U.S. I am sure you guys will have some more to add from your personal experience.

1) Left vs right: fundamental confusion- while getting in cars, driving on roads and walking on sidewalk. We keep to left, in U.S. the motto is keep right. Number of times I went to the wrong side trying to get in to the front seat in the car, and came close to colliding with pedestrians while walking on the sidewalk. And so far i did not have to drive, that would have been another terrible confusion because of the left hand driving. Someone told me- "if you think you are doing it wrong, that's the right thing to do!"

2) Greeting strangers: Everyone greets everyone, when face to face. Thats the polite thing to do- acknowledge the fellow human being. In India, we never or rarely greet strangers, even when traveling alone together in an elevator. And if it is oppposite sex, niobo noibo choh! However, there is a flip side. The greetings are generally routine and if any non-standard reply is given, thats recipe for disaster. Example- a standard greeting would be "hello- how are u doing today?". Now, if you take that to your heart and start saying "glad you asked. how well u think I can be in a recession hit economy? You know, my brother is in Detriot and today he just finished his 67th application without an interview call", that will traumatize and confuse the greeter for weeks and will make him miss the metro for which he was running top speed. Possibly to avoid such eventuality, some people pre-empt the situation by auto-completing the reply. So the greeting goes as "hello. how are u doing today morning? good!!" and he walks off :-)

3) Keep it "short": In a touristy place like Washington DC, half the people on the road might be in off-white shorts in summer. That includes men and women of all ages, and of course children and young adults. Looks good, looks smart, looks comfy, but also looks "different" to Indian eyes.

4) Museums- telling the America story: What a tectonic difference in the attitude towards museums as an institution. The administrators (example Smithsonian Institution, which runs 19 different museums in Washington DC area) consider museums as a vehicle of telling the America story, and organize them with tremendous passion and imagination. The museums are almost interactive, compared to the bureaucratic, cut-and-dry approach of most government controled museums in India. Smithsonian (www.si.edu) also runs 9 research centers and the national zoo, takes hundreds of citizen volunteers, conducts hundreds of workshops and festivals every year in an effort to integrate the common population to to its activities and share the knowledge it continues to acquire about art, culture, history and science. It is not about how much money is spent- it is about how to think differently and creatively. I have nothing but complete admiration for museums in America.

5) Civic sense, discipline, respect for others: No one spits on the road, people and cars wait for the other person or car to move ahead, nio one honks on the road. Quite unthinkable in most situations in India. I have my theory for this. Competition and scramble here results from scarcity of resource. If you are polite and do not rush to be ahead in a queue, you might not get a seat in a train. If you do not elbow out the driver beside you to squeeze in to the small space, you will not move ahead for a long time. If, like in U.S., there was an assurance that the last person in the queue will get a fair share of the "bread", here it would have been exactly as things are in U.S. Does this make sense?

6) Naked man, cool cyclists, independant handicaps: In summer, you will find men, good looking and decent otherwise, running all over town in nothing but shorts, dripping in sweat. I was told, "we really strip down in summer". Way to be, there; unusual, in our eyes. Cycling is fun, and people take it as a serious weekend activity or even as a major sport. Traveling along Beartooth Highway (www.beartoothhighway.com) in Montana, I saw group of cyclists riding up from an elevation of 5000 ft at the base of Red Lodge to 10000 feet at the summit, for a distance of about 50 miles. I was told that they are doing this, so that they can then zip down the mountain curves at exhilarating speed. And these were common men, sometimes quite senior in age. Lasdtly, the people with disability are far more independant, moving around the city in wheelchair without expecting any assistance. The infrastructure on the road is such that they would not need any. The sidewalks slope down gently on the road, so that the wheelchairs can move without any difficulty. Wonderful sensitivity of the system, to make sure no one is left behind.

7) Water from the tap: When was the last you checked in to a good hotel, and drank water from the bathroom tap? You would do it all the time in U.S. Public water sources are considered very safe, and hotels would laugh if you ask for drinking water bottle/pitcher in your room. I still pause at this, even after many years of travel there.

8) Light switch work in opposite direction: Here- down- on; up- off. there- just the opposite. how about that?

9) Food portions: Huge is an understatement. A plate is usually too much for a single individual. Doesn't happen often in India, whatever be the price of the plate.

10) Do it yourself: Almost everywhere, you would miss the "support" that you are used to in India. In gas station, you fill your own gas- not a soul to help. In hotel, you haul your own bags to the room and push a cart on your own. At home, you do all work, mow your lawns if possible, wash your car, shove your snow.

11) Not exactly a dog's life: dogs are very important part of society. Pet grooming is multi-billion dollar business. Owners happily carry dog poop from the road back in to house for disposal. To be fair, the dogs also seem much more well-behaved than their Indian counterparts (this may evoke strong reaction)!

12) "Smooch" nahi tio kuch nahin: Propensity for PDA (public display of affection)- very high. :-)

Those, my friends, are my top "here vs there" issues! Neutral observations, no value judgments. Let me know what you think.

Woman at the wheel- just a visual

This blog is only about a picture.

Recorded live, by yours truly, from a balcony last weekend. No value judgement about women's driving skills, no personal bias, no quoting from German woman professor Claudia Wolf's research on parking skills of men and women (http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-1237383/Men-really-ARE-better-parking--thats-woman-professor-talking.html). I am swiping off any hint of smile with a dark handkerchief as I write this. Yes, I giggled when I saw the scene unfolding under my eyes last Saturday, the 3-min sequence being as below:

• a new sedan car with windows rolled up come under the balcony (it is a wide end of a blind lane)
• tries to turn around (takes one round of backing up unless the car is a maruti)
• ends up on the edge of the road where the edges slope slightly to ensure water drainage
• stops, rolls slightly, stops precariously close to the garden fence of the house ahead, can't back off (no dearth of space at the back)
• a teenager steps out of the car and goes near the bonnet, touches it to push the car back, startles and takes his palm off because the ambient is 37 degrees and the bonnet is 40
• his father come out of the left front seat and the duo PUSHES THE CAR BACK using their handkerchiefs as gloves (at this point i whip out my cellphone and start recording)

For a moment I thought the car battery was dead, but then as soon as the car came in the middle of the road width I could see a pink sleeve in the driver's seat :-) Then the car moves smartly forward from that safe position, when it does not require backing up anymore. The father-son duo get in to the car and the mom briskly drives off. Seeing the drive away, no one would believe that a few seconds ago the lady was struggling to back up on a 5 degree slope and rotate the steering 30 degree to the left to back the car up to the middle of the road. I realized then, moving forward and moving back are two entirely different ball games.

I am not trying to say anything here. It is just a visual. Get mad at me, or sit back and enjoy. Cheers!